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Sabot Tuning
Guide
Sail Information
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The following tuning guide is meant to be a starting point when setting
up your new North sail. Depending on your weight, sailing style, wind
and sea conditions you may have to alter your set up slightly from what
is given here. As you read this tuning guide, write down any questions
or comments you may have about this guide or sabot sailing in general
and our Sabot experts will be happy
to discuss them with you in detail.
Setting up the Boat
When buying a boat the important thing to look for is the condition
of the hull. The brand is not that important as long as the hull and
blades (leeboard and rudder) are in good shape. The bottom and blades
should be free from all nicks and scratches.
For masts there is little difference between the Proctor, LeFiel and
Gold Finger spars. Again look for a mast that is free from dents and
that is not bent permanently in any one direction.
Mast Rake
Mast
rake is a very important consideration in the Sabot. It determines how
much helm the boat will have upwind and has a great deal to do with
boat speed in general. To measure mast rake, tape a tape measure to
the top of the mast and measure down to the top center of the transom.
This measurement should be about 13'3 3/4". There is no way to
change the mast rake on the water. So you'll have to come back to a
dock and get someone to hold the mast for you while you change the setting.
***Remember these settings are only a starting point, the best way to
find your perfect rake is to go sailing and to see what works best for
your boat. A good reference point on the water while you are sailing
is that when the sail is fully sheeted in the boom should be about 16
inches above the corner of the transom. A boat that has a problem pointing
or holding a lane may have too much mast rake. On the other hand, a
boat that points well but can't go through the water may have too little
mast rake. These measurements can be a matter of an inch or two. It's
always good to get the opinion of someone else or take a picture of
you sailing to see for yourself.
Leeboard Position
The
leeboard and rudder are important parts of your boat and taking care
of them carefully should be your first concern. The best shape for either
blade is very thin and as wide as possible below the waterline. The
thickness of a well-shaped blade is 3/4". A good way to get this
is to try and get a hold of some templates and shape them skinnier than
the slot and max in the mold. When sailing upwind rake the leeboard
slightly forward until about 10 knots. I about 10 - 14 knots you will
start to rake the board more straight up and down. If the breeze increases
more and the boat still has a lot of helm you may need to rake the board
just slightly aft. *** Remember upwind on starboard tack to sail the
boat as flat as possible. It is OK on port tack to sail with a slight
heel.***
Sail Trim
Upwind
When sailing your Sabot always be aware of your mainsheet tension, as
this is a gas pedal as well as a brake if you're not too careful.
When sailing upwind in light air (0-7 knots) be careful to not pull
on the mainsheet so hard that it stalls your upper telltales and closes
down the back of your sail. You will also have no downhaul or boomvang
on. You will have a very powered up sail at this with the outhaul eased
having about 6 inches between the boom and the sail. It is always better
to err on the eased side of things when sailing in light air. As the
breeze increases you will have to trim things a little harder.
When
sailing upwind in medium breezes (8-13 knots) trim your mainsheet so
that you are just beginning to stall the top telltales about 30% of
the time. You will be pulling on the downhaul just enough to get rid
of the wrinkles and then easing it off again as to not have much tension
on it at all. You will also have your outhaul a little tighter, as you
will need to pull it to the point where you are just beginning to see
a very small crease in the foot of the sail. As the breeze gets windier
(13+ knots) you will have to start to pull everything a little harder.
The outhaul will be pretty tight. The downhaul will be just tight enough
to take all of the wrinkles out of the sail, and you will be sheeting
pretty tight, but never past the corner of the boat. You may in the
puffs be easing the mainsheet enough to get you on your feet again.
When easing the mainsheet in a puff try to anticipate the puff and never
ease more than 3-6 inches, anymore and the boat will stop going forward.
You will also have your boom vang on just snug so that when you ease
in the puff the leach of your sail doesn't twist off too much. You want
to try and maintain the same tension on the leach as you had while you
were trimmed in.*** Marks or reference points on all of your control
lines are a great idea!!!
Downwind
When
sailing the sabot downwind find a comfortable angle of heel so that
you can concentrate on the BIG PICTURE around you and not weather your
boat is going to flip over. When sailing downwind it is recommended
that the leeboard be lifted out of the water, but only if you feel comfortable
doing it. Be very aware that when the leeboard is out of the water this
limits your maneuverability on the course. (i.e. heading up or gybing)
When sailing downwind remember to ease all of your control lines off,
as this will severely hamper your downwind speed. The vang should be
pulled on just enough as to have a firm leech with the batten parallel
or with a slight twist to it. Experiment with this and you will be able
to tell the difference pretty quickly. Also downwind you should never
let the boom out past 90 degrees. In more than 14 knots you may have
the boom pulled in a little to help with the stability of the boat.
Try to feel comfortable in the boat and do not use downwind as a time
to rest as some of the biggest gains on the coarse can be made on the
downwind legs.
Summary
When
sailing upwind be aware of how your body weight effects how the boat
lies in the water, so that the bow is not digging and that the stern
is not dragging. Because everyone weighs a little different this position
may vary from person to person, but the general rule of thumb is to
sit as close to the thwart as possible. Remember to always keep the
boat driving forward, especially in chop. In flat water if you can sail
the boat a little higher, but not to give up any speed on your competitors
try to, this can be a huge weapon. Remember that a happy medium is the
best way to sail your boat. Try these settings, practice and go sailing.
If you find something that works a little better for you or have any
questions about the Sabot in general please contact our Sabot experts
at North Sails San Diego. Good luck with your new XLR-8 and sail fast.
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UPWIND |
Light
(0-7 knots) |
Medium
(8-13 knots) |
Heavy
(14+ knots) |
| Outhaul |
6 inches from boom |
4 inches, just showing creases in foot |
2 inchesTight always showing crease in foot |
| Downhaul |
none |
1/2 of the wrinkles out |
No wrinkles |
| Mainsheet |
all telltales flowing |
top telltales just stalling 30% |
all top telltales flowing |
| Leeboard |
raked slightly forward |
straight |
If too much helm rake slightly aft |
| Vang |
none |
none |
just snug, maybe vang sheeting |
|
DOWNWIND |
Light
(0-7 knots) |
Medium
(8-13 knots) |
Heavy
(14+ knots) |
| Outhaul |
eased |
10-8 inches from the boom |
6 inches from the boom |
| Downhaul |
none |
none |
none |
| Mainsheet |
eased to 90 degrees |
eased to 90 degrees |
pulled in to 80 degrees |
| Leeboard |
pulled up |
pulled up |
pulled up |
| Vang |
Top batten just twisting off |
tight, top batten parallel |
tighter, top batten parallel |
For tuning help contact the North
Sabot experts.
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